Short answer
Breguet reference 3317 is a vintage chronograph from the 1950s, not a current catalog model. Because the original is scarce and expensive, most watches sold as a "3317 lookalike" are new builds: a steel case of about 37 mm, a two-register dial, and a hand-wind chronograph movement. Judge the watch on four points: movement, dial print, subdial spacing, and caseback markings. A replica can look correct in a photo and fail all four in hand.
What reference 3317 is
Breguet built the 3317 in the 1950s on a Valjoux base. Case size is reported at about 37 mm. The dial carries two subdials at 3 and 9, a tachymeter or decimal scale, and Breguet signature text below 12. Numbers on the caseback are stamped, not laser etched. Confirm details against an auction archive before you treat any spec as fixed, since examples differ.
Where lookalikes fail
- Subdial spacing. Copies use stock movements with spacing set by the movement, not the original layout.
- Dial print. Original text sits thin and slightly uneven. Copy print is heavier and too crisp.
- Case finish. Old steel has soft edges from wear. New cases show sharp lugs and flat bevels.
- Pushers. Original chronograph pushers sit close to the case band. Copies use wider, deeper pushers.
- Caseback. Engraving depth and font weight differ. Many copies carry no reference number at all.
- Movement. A correct base is a Valjoux caliber. A copy often uses a cheaper chronograph movement from Asia.
How to check the movement
- Ask for a clear photo of the movement with the caseback off.
- Look for a maker mark and a caliber number under the balance.
- Compare the bridge shape and finish to archive photos of the original caliber.
- Check that the chronograph resets to zero on both counters. A slow or drifting reset points to a low-grade module.
Price signals
Original 3317 examples trade at auction in the thousands of dollars. A replica sells for a small fraction of that. If a seller quotes an original price and shows a watch with fresh lugs and heavy dial print, stop. If a seller quotes a replica price and calls the watch a 3317, treat the reference number as a label, not a fact.
Fake Breguet 3317 Counterfeit: Identification Guide
Questions to ask before paying
- Which caliber sits in the watch, and who made it?
- Is the case original, or is it a new build?
- Are the dial and hands original to the case?
- Will you send photos of the movement, the caseback, and the lugs?
If the seller cannot answer these four questions with photos, the watch has no provenance to check.