A fake Rolex Explorer II 16559 is a replica of the transitional 40mm Explorer II, and the strongest versions get four things right: the 40mm Oyster case with drilled lugs, the fixed 24-hour steel bezel, the 24-hour hand sitting correctly in the hand stack, and clean matte dial printing under a flat sapphire crystal. Get those four right and the watch reads as an Explorer II from arm's length. Get any of them wrong and it reads as a costume piece.

What the 16559 Reference Actually Is

The Explorer II began in 1971 with the 1655, then was redesigned in 1985 with the 16550, which brought a 40mm case, a sapphire crystal, a white Polar dial option, and the Caliber 3085 movement. The 16558 and 16559 sit in that same mid to late 1980s window and are far less documented. Collectors still debate what separates them, and clean examples rarely surface for sale.

That thin paper trail is part of why the reference draws replica buyers. You are chasing a look rather than a serial number: matte black or white dial, arrow-tipped 24-hour hand, no magnifier over the date, no crown guards, brushed steel throughout.

Why This Reference Is Tough to Replicate

Two features drive cost. The case has thick, drilled lugs and a slab-sided profile that cheap machining rounds off, and the dial is bare, so every flaw is visible. There is no chronograph, no rotating bezel, and no busy subdial layout to pull the eye away.

The bezel is the second problem. It is fixed steel with engraved 24-hour numerals, so engraving depth, font, and brushing all have to line up. A bezel that turns with a click is an instant giveaway on this model.

What to Inspect Before You Buy

• Case profile. 40mm wide, thick lugs, drilled lug holes, no crown guards.
• Bezel. Fixed, brushed steel, engraved numerals with crisp edges. It should not rotate.
• Dial printing. Font weight, coronet shape, and spacing between text lines. Print should sit flat on a matte surface, not glossy.
• 24-hour hand. Arrow tip and hand stack position should suit the reference era. The bright orange arrow belongs to the earlier 1655, not to this family.
• Crystal. Flat sapphire with no magnifier over the date. A cyclops here is wrong.
• Lume. Even application and matching color across hands and markers.
• Bracelet. Oyster-style links with correct taper, solid end links, and no rattle at the clasp.

Movement Options in a 16559 Replica

No factory builds a true Caliber 3085 clone, so replica makers use substitutes. Entry builds run an Asian 2836 with a GMT module. Mid and upper tiers use a Swiss ETA 2836-2, and some use a 3186-style clone.

What changes the ownership experience is the setting sequence. On the original caliber, the 24-hour hand and the date set in a specific order. If the replica's 24-hour hand only moves with the crown position, the function differs even though the dial looks correct. Ask the seller to describe the setting sequence in plain language before you order.

Tiers and What Separates Them

• Entry. Stamped dial, mineral glass, hollow-link bracelet, loud rotor.
• Mid. Sapphire crystal, sharper dial print, Swiss or high-grade Asian movement, solid end links.
• Top 1:1. Custom dial with correct font and matte finish, period-correct case shape, properly brushed bezel, bracelet with correct taper and clasp stamping.

How to Judge Seller Photos

• Ask for macro shots of the dial at 12 o'clock and of the crown side of the case.
• Request photos of the actual unit, not a stock rendering.
• Ask for a timegrapher reading if rate accuracy matters to you.
• Confirm the return window in writing before paying.

Legal and Practical Notes

Rules around counterfeit watches differ by country and by what you do with them. Personal ownership, importing, and reselling are not treated the same way in the US or the EU. A short check before ordering saves trouble later.

Living With a 40mm Explorer II Replica

The 40mm case wears smaller than the numbers suggest because the lugs curve down, so it suits wrists that find modern 42mm sports watches too broad. Keep the bracelet clean with warm water and a soft brush, avoid steam and hot showers even if the case is rated for water, and have an ETA-based movement cleaned and oiled every few years of regular wear.

FAQ

Is the 16559 the same as the 16550?

They belong to the same transitional family with the same case size and sapphire crystal, but they are separate references and collectors treat them as such.

Which dial should I choose?

A black matte dial hides small print flaws better. A white or cream-tone dial shows inconsistent lume and uneven text, so it is the harder one to get right.

How often does a replica movement need service?

An ETA-based movement usually runs for several years before it needs attention, depending on how often you wear it and how it is stored.