Short Answer
An Omega reference 2579 is a 1950s Seamaster: a steel watch of roughly 34 to 35 mm with a bumper automatic movement, dauphine hands, and a plain dial. Replicas of that exact vintage reference are not made in volume. Most sellers who use the number 2579 are describing a vintage-style build, a modern Seamaster 300M copy, or a relabeled generic case. Treat the number as a question to ask, not a specification you can trust.
What the Reference Number Covers
Omega built the Seamaster line through the 1950s with a family of case references that share a look: a slim steel case, a domed crystal, a screw-in caseback, and a bumper automatic inside. Ref 2579 sits in that group. Original examples use a two-piece case, lugs that drill or do not drill depending on the run, and dials with applied or printed logos. Genuine pieces are collector items now, which is why some buyers look at replica options instead.
Know the limits. A replica is a copy, not an Omega. It has no factory service history, no archive extract, and no collector value. If you want the real thing, the replica market is not the path.
How to Judge a Replica 2579
- Measure the case. Period cases sit near 34 to 35 mm across, crown excluded. A 40 mm copy is a modern build wearing a vintage label.
- Check the profile. Vintage Seamaster cases are thin and taper into the lugs. Thick slabs with flat sides read as modern.
- Look at the dial printing. Logo, brand name, model name, and the automatic line should sit on one straight axis. Crooked print or heavy fonts are the first tell.
- Inspect the hands. Dauphine hands with a clean center crease match the period. Painted or filled hands do not.
- Examine the crystal. Domed acrylic with slight edge distortion fits the 1950s. Flat sapphire does not.
- Read the caseback. Vintage backs carry a Seamaster medallion or simple engraving, not a deep display window.
- Check the crown. Small, unsigned or lightly signed crowns match. Oversized crowns with heavy knurling do not.
- Test the movement sound. A bumper automatic rocks and clicks when you tilt it. A rotor spins. If the seller cannot say which movement is inside, ask for a photo with the back off.
- Judge the strap. Period leather or a thin beads-of-rice style fits. A heavy modern bracelet does not.
- Ask for a video in daylight. Photos hide dial texture, lume color, and case polish lines.
Movements You Will Find
Replica 2579 builds carry one of three movements in most cases.
- Chinese automatic, such as a Miyota or Seagull pattern. Reliable for the price, no bumper action.
- Swiss ETA or Sellita automatic. Smoother winding, serviceable, higher cost.
- Vintage-style hand-wound or bumper clones. Rare, and hard to service outside a specialist.
A bumper automatic gives the correct period feel and almost never appears in replicas. If a listing claims a true bumper movement, get a video of the watch rocked side to side.
Price Bands
Expect three bands. Entry builds with a basic automatic run a low three-figure price. Mid builds with a Swiss movement and better dial work cost more. Top builds with a custom case and hand-finished dial reach into four figures, which is close to what some genuine project watches sell for. At that price, compare against a real vintage Omega before you commit.
Before You Pay
- Confirm the case diameter and thickness in millimeters.
- Ask which movement is inside and whether a local watchmaker will service it.
- Request photos of the dial straight on, the caseback, and the crown side.
- Ask about water resistance and whether the gaskets were replaced.
- Check the return window and the payment method.
- Save the listing photos so you can compare them when the watch arrives.
Ownership Notes
Keep any automatic replica away from strong magnets and set the time with the crown pulled out. Have the movement serviced every four to six years if you wear it often. Store it on a soft surface, since acrylic crystals scratch. Never sell or describe a replica as a genuine Omega. That crosses from a copy purchase into fraud.