What is the Rolex Explorer II ref. 1655?
The Rolex Explorer II reference 1655 is the first Explorer II, launched in 1971 and produced until roughly 1985. It combines a 39 mm steel case with a fixed 24-hour bezel and a bright orange 24-hour hand, a layout created for cave explorers who lose track of day and night underground.
Collectors call it the "Steve McQueen," even though the actor was never photographed wearing one. The nickname appeared after his death and now covers every dial generation of the reference.
Note that this guide covers the genuine watch and legal alternatives. Counterfeit or "fake" versions of the 1655 are not a shortcut to the real thing, and the sections below explain why.
Why counterfeit Explorer 1655 listings cost buyers money
A counterfeit watch copies Rolex trademarks, which makes it illegal to import, sell, or ship in the United States. Customs officers can seize the package, and the buyer loses both the watch and the payment with no refund path.
Replica listings also misdescribe the product. Photos show a sample, the movement arrives unmarked or generic, and no independent watchmaker will service the case because replacement parts do not exist.
Resale value is close to zero. A genuine 1655 holds value because Rolex made a limited number of them, while a counterfeit has no collector market at all.
What does a genuine 1655 look like?
Several details separate the real reference from any imitation, and they are the same details collectors check first.
- 39 mm stainless steel case, with drilled lugs on earlier examples
- Fixed steel 24-hour bezel that does not rotate
- Orange arrow-tipped 24-hour hand, nicknamed the "Freccione" in Italian
- Matte dials produced across Mark I through Mark V generations
- Rolex calibre 1570 family movement with a slow-set date
- No independent 24-hour hand, it tracks with the hour hand
Dial Mark, bezel condition, and service history drive most of the price difference between two otherwise similar watches.
Which legal watches give the same look?
Homage watches from microbrands copy the fixed 24-hour bezel and orange hand without using Rolex names or logos. They are legal, serviceable, and cost a fraction of an original.
Mainstream options include the Seiko 5 Sports field GMT series, which pairs an orange 24-hour hand with a rotating bezel, and the modern Rolex Explorer II 226570 if budget allows. A pre-owned 1655 from a reputable dealer remains the only way to own the original.
What should you verify before buying a genuine 1655?
- Request macro photos of the dial, caseback stamping, and movement.
- Confirm the serial and reference numbers against the papers.
- Ask for a recent service record or an independent inspection.
- Buy from a dealer with a written authenticity guarantee and a return window.
FAQ
Is the Explorer II 1655 called the Steve McQueen?
Yes. The nickname is collector shorthand, though Steve McQueen never publicly wore the reference. The watch is also called the Freccione because of its arrow hand.
How much does a real 1655 cost?
Prices sit well into five figures in US dollars and climb with early dial Marks, original bezels, and complete box and papers. Condition matters more than any single feature.
Can a fake 1655 be serviced or resold?
No. Authorized service centers refuse counterfeit watches, independent watchmakers cannot source parts, and no auction house or dealer will take one on consignment.